Candle Making KITS & Guides
Candle Making KIT Video Guides
Aromatherapy candle making
Step One - Weigh your wax.
The silver candle tins, in my kits, need approximately 100 grams of wax (half of the bag included in the kit). The rose gold tins need approximately 200 grams of wax (a whole bag of wax).
Step Twp - Secure your wicks.
Centrally secure your wick using a sticky dot and support the wick with the prop.
Step Three - Melt your wax.
I recommend using a double boiler (a bowl or jug over a pan of simmering water) to gently melt the wax as it prevents bubbles forming in your candles. Continuously stir your wax until it has completely melted, then remove from the heat.
If you prefer to use a microwave: Heat your wax in a microwavable container, on a low setting, for short bursts so you can stir your wax regularly until it has completely melted.
Step Four - Add your essential oils.
Allow the wax to cool for a few minutes. Ideally you'll want your wax to be about 60-65 centigrade. The wax will start to look opaque on the surface. Then add approximately 1ml of essential oil for each silver tin, or 2ml of essential oil for each rose gold tin.
Berry Adventurous candle making kits contain essential oil combinations that you can use individually or blend together in your candles. Thoroughly stir in your essential oils.
Example: If you want to make a lavender and lime candle in a silver tin, you would use 100 grams of wax, ½ ml of lavender essential oil and ½ ml of lime essential oil.
Step Five - Pour your wax.
Allowing the wax to cool slightly will avoid your candle frosting, or dipping in the middle. Wait until your wax becomes opaque on the surface before you pour. If the wax has become too thick to pour, warm again slightly over the heat. Pour your wax into your tin(s) nice and slowly. Allow your candles to set for 48hours before burning them.
OPTIONAL: ROSE GOLD FLAKES & SALT CRYSTALS
Once you've poured your wax, allow it cool slightly more then delicately add your rose gold flakes and salt crystals decoratively around the edge or your candle.
Enjoy your handmade aromatherapy candle, the tin will get very hot while burning, so please use a candle stand. Once you've used your candles you can make them all over again.
Please refer to my CLP guide if you are planning to give away or sell your scented candles.
Step by step Colourful candle making guide
Rainbow Candle making
Geometric Candle making Kit Guide
Step One - Prepare your mould.
Pierce a tiny hole (using a needle or cocktail stick) in the most central point of the mould. Push a wick through the hole so about 1cm of wick is on the outside of the mould. Secure the wick, on the outside of the mould, with the plasticine provided. Place the mould on a level surface with the open side facing up. Use the wick props to support the wick centrally in the candle mould.
Step Two - Weigh your wax and prepare your colour flakes.
The geometric candle mould in my colourful candle making kit uses approximately 95 - 100g of wax, ½ a bag of wax.
For geometric double colour candles, I use 50g of wax for each colour layer.
For a geometric rainbow candles I use approximately 10g of wax for the first layer (red) and second layer (orange), and 20g of wax for the 3rd (yellow), 4th (green), 5th (blue) and 6th layer (purple) of the candle. The first layer you melt and pour will be the top of the candle.
Add less colour flakes for lighter colours or more colour flakes for a more intense colour.
Step Three - Melt your wax.
Melt about 3-5g of wax and your colour flakes gently in a double boiler, continuously stirring quickly. Once the colour has dissolved, add the rest of the wax required for the layer you are making.
Step Four - Remove from the heat and add a scent.
Once your wax and colour flakes have completely melted, you can get ready to add your scent. You need to allow the wax to cool slightly. The time will vary depending on the room temperature. An ideal temperature to add scent to candle wax is about 60-65 degrees centigrade. At this temperature, you my notice the top layer of wax has started to become opaque.
Step Five - Pouring your wax.
Firstly you need to warm your mould, this prevents frosting. You can hold it in my hands for a minute or two, use a hair dyer or hold the mould over the steam of the double boiler.
Put something underneath your mould, or put your mould in the box to collect any leaks.
The temperature can vary due to the ambient room temperature, and can take a different amount of time depending on the quantity of wax you have melted, you can do this by eye if you don't have a thermostat. The wax will look slightly opaque on the surface of the wax, then give the wax another good stir and pour nice and slowly into your mould.
Step Six - Allow to set.
Allow the wax time to set. If you are pouring a multilayered candle, allow each layer about an hour before pouring the next layer. Repeat steps three and four until your candle mould is full.
Once your candle mould is full, allow your candle to cool and set overnight.
Step Seven - Demould your candle.
To demould, remove the plasticine and loosen the top of the mould from the candle. Push the base of the candle mould up to pop your candle out of the mould. Cut off excess wick & apply safety sticker to candle base. Enjoy your colourful candle and repeat for more candles.
Cactus Candle making
Flowery Cactus Candle making Kit Guide
Step One - Prepare your mould.
Pierce a tiny hole (using a needle or cocktail stick) in the most central point of the mould. Push a wick through the hole so about 1cm of wick is on the outside of the mould. Secure the wick, on the outside of the mould, with the plasticine provided. Place the mould on a level surface with the open side facing up. Use the wick props to support the wick centrally in the candle mould.
Step Two - Weigh your wax and prepare your colour flakes.
The Cactus Candle mould uses about 65g of wax. I use about 3-5g for the flower spots and the rest for the body of the cactus candle.
Add less colour flakes for lighter colours or more colour flakes for a more intense colour. If you want to make a rainbow cactus, you can just divide 65grams of wax into 6 for the layers of your candle. I would probably use 10grams for layers 1- 5 and then 15grams for the last (bottom) layer. Or get creative and make some random coloured cactus!
Step Three - Make flower dots. Skip this step if you don't want flower dots.
Melt about 3-5g of wax and your colour flakes gently in a double boiler, continuously stirring quickly. Once the colour has dissolved, allow to cool and become slightly opaque. Warm your mould in your hands, over the steam or with a hair dryer, then use the handle of a teaspoon to drip wax into the indentations on the mould to create flower spots. Allow 10-20mins for these to set.
Step Four - Melt some more wax.
Melt another 3-5g of wax and your colour flakes gently in your double boiler, continuously stirring quickly. Once the colour has dissolved, add the rest of the wax required for the layer or for the whole cactus.
Step Five - Remove from the heat and add a scent.
Once your wax and colour flakes have completely melted, you can get ready to add your scent. You need to allow the wax to cool slightly. The time will vary depending on the room temperature. An ideal temperature to add scent to candle wax is about 60-65 degrees centigrade. At this temperature, you my notice the top layer of wax has started to become opaque.
Step Five - Pouring your wax.
Firstly you need to warm your mould, this prevents frosting. You can hold it in my hands for a minute or two, use a hair dyer or hold the mould over the steam of the double boiler. Don't heat it too much though, or your flowery dots will melt.
Put something underneath your mould, or put your mould in the box to collect any leaks.
The temperature can vary due to the ambient room temperature, and can take a different amount of time depending on the quantity of wax you have melted, you can do this by eye if you don't have a thermostat. The wax will look slightly opaque on the surface of the wax, then give the wax another good stir and pour nice and slowly into your mould.
Step five - Allow to set.
Allow the wax time to set. If you are pouring a multilayered candle, allow each layer about an hour before pouring the next layer. Repeat step four until your candle mould is full.
Once your candle mould is full, allow your candle to cool and set overnight.
Step Six - Demould your candle.
To demould, remove the plasticine and loosen the top of the mould from the candle. Push the base of the candle mould up to pop your candle out of the mould. Cut off excess wick & apply safety sticker to candle base. Enjoy your colourful candle and repeat for more candles.
Please refer to my CLP guide if you are planning to give away or sell your scented candles.
Tips & Tricks
The Berry Adventurous candle making kits contain Nature Soy wax C3.
Nature wax has a melting point is between 71.1 to 93.3°C.
The pouring temperature differs according to the ambient temperature of the room.
Ambient room Temp. Pouring temp.
15.6 to 21.1°C 76.7 to 82.2°C
21.1 to 26.7°C 71.1 to 76.7°C
26.7 to 32.2°C 62.8 to 68.3°C
It is always best to warm the candle mould or container before pouring your wax.
The best way to melt wax is in a double boiler, as this avoids heat pockets and bubbles in your candles. If you melt your candle wax in a microwave, its best to use a low setting and stir regularly.
Dyes are best added while heating/melting the wax, colour flakes require heat to melt fully into the wax.
It's then best to allow the wax to cool slightly before adding Essential oils or fragrances. This reduces risk of evaporation of the essential/fragrance oils.
To avoid candle shrinkage or frosting, its best to allow the wax to cool before pouring. The temperature will vary due to the ambient room temperature(see above). By sight, while the wax is liquid with a slight opaque quality, its a pretty good time to pour. I prefer to pour super slow too, this will help to avoid sink holes in your candle.
Practice makes perfect :)